RVing the Canadian Rockies

Published on 6 October 2018 at 21:22

Our trip to Banff and Jasper in the Canadian Rockies was by far the greatest trip I've been on - and I've been to some amazing places including Patagonia! We decided that the best way to make the most of this adventure was to hire an RV and without a doubt this made our trip! See my blog post below for all the information on what we did. See my separate blog post "Ultimate Guide to Banff and Jasper" for information on how you can do this too.

Our trip started in the nearest city to Banff of Calgary where we went to pick up our RV. We were excited but a little nervous about the prospect of driving such a large vehicle in a strange country (and on the other side of the road) but once we got on the road we were absolutely fine! We rented our RV from t once we got on the road we were absolutely fine! We rented our RV from CanaDream and had opted for the Deluxe Van Camper which was fantastic for the two of us and would highly recommend. Off we headed via a supermarket on towards Banff.

Approaching the Rocky Mountains from Calgary is an unforgettable experience. As you leave the city and head west on the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 1), the landscape begins to transform going from the flat prairies to the rolling foothills, and soon, the jaw dropping peaks of the Rockies start to appear on the horizon.

The drive from Calgary to Banff took us around 1.5 hours and darkness was starting to fall as we checked into our first campsite Two Jack Lakeside.  We saw elk and deer enroute so we were getting excited about the wildlife to come! This campsite has a beautiful setting in the trees besides Two Jack Lake. We had a little potter to the shore before we got ourselves ready for bed and got a good night sleep for the rest of the trip ahead. 

We awoke the next morning to find bear poo (!!!) just outside our door. It both excited and terrified me in one breadth - sad not to have seen the bear but also really pleased that we were safe inside our RV. We had only managed to secure one nights stay at Two Jack Lakeside so headed out for our first adventure for the day on to Johnston Canyon to do the Ink Pots Trail.

This trail is a beautiful one that starts by walking up the canyon before arriving at the beautiful clear blue mineral springs. We thought the scenery was absolutely spectacular - but this was only the beginning! Johnston Canyon itself is wonderful and stunning - you’ll walk along catwalks and bridges, passing by the Lower and Upper Falls. I'd definitely recommend a visit here even if you don't make it to the Ink Pots. On our way back the heavens opened and we got absolutely drenched - this was the first time we realised how convenient it was to have the RV! Rather than having to get into a car dripping wet to head to our accommodation - we were already there! A quick change and we were on our way to check in to Lake Louise Campground for the next three nights.

If you are interested here is some more information on the Ink Pots Trail below. If not the blog continues below.

Ink Pots Trail

Trail Overview

• Distance: Approximately 12 km (7.5 miles) round trip
• Elevation Gain: About 608 meters (1,995 feet)
• Duration: Typically takes 3-4 hours to complete
• Difficulty: Moderate to difficult

Starting Point

The hike begins at the Johnston Canyon trailhead, located along the Bow Valley Parkway (Highway 1A), just 6 km west of Banff. The trailhead is well-marked and popular, so arriving early is recommended to avoid crowds.

The Hike

  • The first part of the hike takes you through the stunning Johnston Canyon. You’ll walk along catwalks and bridges, passing by the Lower and Upper Falls. This section is about 2.5 km and offers incredible views of the canyon and waterfalls.
  • After the Upper Falls, the trail continues into a dense forest. This part of the hike is quieter and more serene, with a steady climb for about 3.2 km.
  • As you near the Ink Pots, the trail opens up into a beautiful meadow surrounded by towering mountain peaks. The final stretch includes a short descent into the meadow where the Ink Pots are located

The Ink Pots

The Ink Pots are a series of five cool mineral springs, each with a unique blue-green color due to the minerals in the water. The springs bubble up through the sand and gravel, creating mesmerizing patterns. The area around the Ink Pots offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and is a perfect spot for a picnic or a rest before heading back.

The next morning we were up and off early to head to Lake Louise and our chosen hike of the day - the Plain of the Six Glaciers. We got Lake Louise as early as we could to get parked and to try and avoid the crowds (a lot of which arrive by bus for a quick photo of the lake before heading off to their next destination). We spent a little time at the front taking photos and then headed along to shore to start our hike with the trailhead located near the iconic Fairmount Chateau Lake Louise. The hike starts with a gentle walk along the shoreline of Lake Louise and as you leave the lake behind, the trail begins to ascend. The higher you climb, the more spectacular the views become and the closer to the glaciers you get! At the end of the trail we found ourself in a natural amphitheater surrounded by six glaciers which was truly spectacular. We chose here to sit and eat our packed lunch which was a wonderful experience! We'd made good time on the hike so decided that we would take an additional route back down and head via the Lake Agnes Tea House which also saw us via the Big Beehive and Mirror Lake.

The Lake Agnes Tea House is special little place and is definitely worth the visit. It was built in 1901 by the Canadian Pacific Railway, it started serving tea in 1905. It has rustic charm with wooden tables and chairs and we got to sit outside (complete in our hats and gloves). It's worth knowing that the Tea House only accepts cash. From here we headed on the trail back down to Lake Louise and back to the RV. Our plan for the evening was to try and get to Moraine Lake (as it is difficult to park and they shut the entrance road when it is too busy - please note that even this has changed since we went so please check how to get to the lake if you want to go).

After we recharged our batteries a little back at the campground we headed to Moraine Lake as it near sunset and we got lucky and managed to get parked! When we arrived we were greeted by the breathtaking backdrop that surrounds the lake. In all honestly I felt a pang of disappointment looking at the lake as it didn't appear as blue as I was expecting - but sure enough once we walked up to the view point I was stunned - the lake is really as blue as you see in the pictures. We were so pleased to have made it!

Plain of the Six Glaciers Hike

Trail Overview

Distance: Approximately 13.8 km
• Elevation Gain: About 487 meters
• Duration: Typically takes 3-5 hours to complete
• Difficulty: Moderate

You can also combine this hike with the Lake Agnes Teahouse or Big Beehive via the Highline Trail if you are planning for a full-day Rockies adventure.

The Trail

  • The hike starts with a gentle walk along the shoreline of Lake Louise. The turquoise waters and surrounding peaks provide a stunning backdrop
  • As you leave the lake behind, the trail begins to ascend. You’ll pass through lush forests and open meadows, with occasional glimpses of glaciers in the distance.
  • The higher you climb, the more spectacular the views become. The trail offers panoramic vistas of the surrounding mountains and glaciers.
  • About 5.5 km into the hike, you’ll reach the historic Plain of Six Glaciers Teahouse. This charming spot offers a variety of homemade treats and beverages, perfect for a mid-hike break. Enjoy a cup of tea or a slice of pie while taking in the breathtaking scenery.
  • After the teahouse, continue hiking for another 1.6 km to reach the viewpoint. This section is steeper but rewards you with close-up views of the glaciers and the surrounding peaks.
  • At the end of the trail, you’ll find yourself in a natural amphitheater surrounded by six glaciers. The sight of these massive ice formations is awe-inspiring.

Return Journey

You can begin your descent back to Lake Louise and you see everything with a whole different perspective. You can also go back via the Lake Agnes Tea House for an additional hike which is well worth it.

Up and off early the next day we were headed to Emerald Lake - we got to the car park and then cooked our breakfast - bacon and eggs with this stunning scenery is just magical. We decided to the the Emerald Lake Loop which is a trail that circles the lake and is an easy hike - after the mammoth hike the day before. It was amazing to see the colour of the lake and how green this is compared to the other glacial lakes we'd seen so far! After our walk we decided to rental a rowing boat and get out on the lake. Paddling on the calm, clear waters was such a lovely experience. We were so glad we had done it here rather than at Lake Louise as it is much quieter (and cheaper!). Some other highlights of our day were takakkaw falls and the kicking horse river.

SNOW! We awoke to winter and not just a little bit of snow - but full on snow plough needed snow! I know that the weather is changeable in the Rockies but it was early September so this took me by surprise! Luckily we had packed a lot of clothes so we could layer up to keep warm but I was worried about weather we would make it to Jasper as today was the day we were driving the Icefields Parkway which can close in certain weathers!

Luckily the road was still open and on we went. If I had been nervous about driving the RV before - this made me a little bit of a nervous wreck. On we headed and made all the stops we had planned but unfortunately some of the views weren't there given the weather - however - the snow did make some of the views even more amazing and I have to say I couldn't really be disappointed. Our highlights were Athabasca Glacier, Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls. We even saw a bald eagle eating the carcass of what we think was an elk in the middle of a river which was incredible to see! Another benefit to the RV was having our cooked lunch overlooking the Athabasca Glacier! We finally got to Wapiti campground and got a fire lit and had a lovely dinner of sausages before heading to bed. Of all the campgrounds we stayed in Wapiti was our favourite as it felt more in the wilderness and still had facilities.

Today we headed out to Maligne Lake via Maligne Canyon. The canyon was lovely to visit but I have to say that I much preferred Johnston Canyon. We got to Maligne Lake and had some time to spare before our boat ride across the lake to Spirit Island. We opted to hike the "Moose Lake Loop" as we had heard that Moose are commonly spotted and the lake. The hike did not disappoint and we saw a female moose in the lake. It was an absolutely fantastic experience to see. We then headed back and hopped on our boat trip to Spirit Island. The scenery on the boat trip was amazing particularly with the snow although it mean visibility at Spirit Island wasn't as good as it can be but this didn't matter as it is such a special and tranquil place. I'd definitely recommend this boat ride if you get the opportunity.

That evening we had booked a Jasper Dark Sky experience where we were hoping to see amazing views of the milkway, however, luck was not on our side and the weather was very cloudy. We still made the trip but we never got a gap in the clouds and it was absolutely freezing! Jasper Planetarium still make your trip worthwhile and have hot chocolate on offer in the cold and you do get the planetarium experience. You just need to be happy that you might not get the experience you are hoping for - but that is nature.

The next day we were up and off back down the Icefields Parkway and into Banff before we headed on the next leg of our journey to Vancouver Island. I can honestly say that this part of the trip was absolutely incredible and I can't wait to do it again with the kids.

I've written another blog with the ultimate guide the Rockies so check it out for more hints and tips!

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